The last cry of fashion: appealing capitalism and blind sect

Robert Pattinson wore Craig Green SS/20 in GQ Magazine
Robert Pattinson wore Craig Green SS/20 in GQ Magazine

_ What are we discussing? Still in social isolation (please, stay home!), a lot has changed during the pandemic we are going through, our social understanding and relationships have been drastically altered, and this in itself would give several analyzes of behavior and open promising discussions.

_ In the previous text here at medium, I deal with how fashion had been predicting a context of social isolation and bunker for the individual that is intensified with political polarization worldwide, and now even more with the coronavirus. Nevertheless, our individualities have been exploded and imploded at the same time and digitally during the pandemic. At the same time, we are experiencing a crisis in search of the right — or illusion of privacy, around our space, the hunt for likes, the culture of ultra exposure of our avatars who, in an arena compete with each other, where the level of damage is calculated by “better lifestyle” or as I think, better parody of life.

_ And in the complexity of this moment, the industry also feels the economic impacts that not only the pandemic has generated — but mainly it — but also the impacts of our crisis due to an identification that belongs only to us, which is what the establishment tries to sell us with based on absorbing the delivery of our privacy. Macroeconomically one of the biggest sectors of the world industry with a loss in the billions of dollars, and microeconomically with several small companies of the sector going to starvation with the crisis, the fashion by its own peers seeks immediate breath to stay in the crisis.

_ In terms of numbers, according to GlobalData, only in 2020 the sector tends to shrink 15% and have more than 300 billion dollars in unused consumption. In this source, the biggest loss is concentrated in American fashion and even with the predicted “consumption of revenge” the fashion market will not recover from this crisis until 2022 predict the experts.

Yeah, it’s like a Titanic sinking.

_ The result is a great anything goes of immediacy that are reflected in fads, to leave organizations alive, and of course, profitable: from brands doing “glamorous” masks to use in combination with new dress, like brands selling masks for R $ 150, 00 or much more — but how much are sewings earning in this story anyway? — without thinking that this PPE is being the daily necessity of those who are living hell in health systems all over the world and to this point they have a mask designed on their face for long hours of use. It’s … nothing fashion.

_ There are those who have praiseworthy attitudes as brands that deduct part of their profit from the product, donate half of the sales to those in need and thus boost their sales and give a positive brand impression, despite the cashier that suffers. In addition to these apocalyptic survival methods, we have a big discussion around fashion calendars around the world. Brazil through ABEST and Europe through rewiringfashion.org have already proposed the changes that should be made and at the moment it is frustrating to realize that the change is very much based on saving stocks. What is great for an industry that employs millions of people, but to what extent is it really rewiring fashion?

_ The pandemic is an opportunity in decades to redesign the entire fashion system and our relationship as the artifacts that surround us (because we finally stopped) and is that what we are proposing? Save stocks? Produce just a little less? Relieve the tension a little? Of course, the change is commendable. But an industry that has been discussing for years how to become more sustainable propose THESE changes? How seriously do we take our speeches? Is old capitalism still an acceptable solution?

Revenge spenders waiting for Zara reopening on France.
Revenge spenders waiting for Zara reopening on France.

_ Vivienne Westwood in one of her videos on IGTV states that: “The lockdown is a bridge between the corona and the future”. And a lot has been thought and speculated about the future, including fashion in lives that with immediate solutions try to predict the future based on a past that, as in the previous text, ended. We need to give ourselves time to digest things, slow down and stop speculating based on the old system, let’s design a new one! One that makes sense for an entire post 5G generation and artificial intelligence that comes around and not one that makes sense so you don’t need to burn stock, or that burns in a more palatable way.

_ In the middle of it all, when I put fashion asphyxiation here it is in this sense. We have the opportunity to do what fashion has always done: to see the front, to inspire, to be the channel of a social revolution that, yes, can be played together, and must be played together. But, as long as we are concerned with giving vent to stock and minimum production brakes, we hear fashion scream at the capitalism that strangles it and puts us in this sect of preservation of a toxic and totally outdated modus operandi.

_ On the bright side, fashion has repeatedly shown us that revolutions come from the streets, from dissatisfactions, from the desire to detonate the establishment. And if, at this moment, win over the misfortune and keep the same rusty and hypocritical speech is the new establishment, I hope that when we get out of isolation, we will be hungry to give fashion the voice it needs to have and free it from this unproductive sect.

And you, what do you think? what’s your point?
Leave your comment, let’s discuss fashion :DDD

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Designer and researcher in graphic design and fashion. Writes reviews and reflections on aspects related to fashion, behavior and artifact production.

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Marcos Paulo

Marcos Paulo

Designer and researcher in graphic design and fashion. Writes reviews and reflections on aspects related to fashion, behavior and artifact production.

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